Salt Cay is a tiny, flat, triangular island measuring
about two miles on a side and given over mostly to salinas was once home
to several hundred people, all supported by the salt industry.
It is known that the Spanish explorer Ponce de León
came to the Islands in 1512, when they were inhabited by Arawak Indians.
The Spanish took away the Arawaks to use for slave labour and left the
islands uninhabited. Bermudians came to the islands in the 17th century
and established what was to become the principal industry for the next
300 years - the production of salt from brine. The islands came under
British rule in 1766. It was Turks & Caicos salt that George
Washington needed to preserve the food for his army during the
Revolutionary War and that the Canadian and American fishing fleets used
to salt down their catches.
As late as the 1920s and 1930s, before a combination of
competition, costs, mismanagement, and the lack of a deep-water harbor
brought the salt industry in the Turks & Caicos to an end, as many
as half a dozen sailing ships at a time would be anchored off Salt Cay
awaiting cargo. The salt had to be ferried out to them over shallow
water.
Among the sailing ship captains was a man named James
Buffett. The skipper of the five-masted barkentine Chicamauga,
from Pascagoula, Mississippi, was the grandfather of singer-songwriter
Jimmy Buffett. In his autobiography, A Pirate Looks at Fifty,
Buffett quotes his father, who spent much of his child-hood aboard the Chicamauga
and remembered Salt Cay as the place he had some of the best times of
his life. While salt was being loaded onto the ship, bound for New
Orleans, the six-year-old boy who would grow up to be Jimmy’s father,
would "take off with a group of local kids and…chase flamingos
and catch lobsters from the beach."
One can still visit the imposing White House, built by
Alexander Harriott, on Victoria Street. It is of Bermudian style
influence, constructed of stone and stucco and sports an ancient
Bermudian stone roof. Amidst a complex of single story stone and stucco
utility buildings with ancient faded signs painted on them, and a
weathered gray, wooden ruin known as the "Payroll house/store"
alongside it, the White House stands symbolically next to the last
remaining boat house and salt shed on Salt Cay. Built half in and half
out of the water, several handbuilt boats still shelter here after a day
of fishing. The slanted loft above this boat house was intentionally
built to allow dripping burlap bags of salt to drain down through the
slatted floor. Remnants of old, hand hewn wooden paddles and salt raking
paraphernalia can still be spotted in its corners. Though built by the
same man and of approximately the same size, the White House varies
greatly in style from the Brown House.
A short walk directly behind this imposing landmark
provides a glimpse at what used to be one of the central salt ports of
its day. The remains of a canal and jetty which were once used as a dock
are crumbling into the sea, but still speak of a bustling past when
schooners and their "lighter" boats landed here.
The Brown House, also built by shipwright-turned-salt
baron, Alexander Harriott, in 1832, is another of the historic salt
plantation homes on Salt Cay. It is a rare example of mortise- and tenon-joined,
rough-hewn yellow cypress planking construction which has miraculously
defied almost two centuries of hurricanes, termites and several decades
of neglect. It sits in the center of Balfourtown.
The Dunscombe Point Millworks is located on lovely,
treed lot is where the remains of an old stone mill still stand. There
is a small man-made lagoon and a tiny sandy beach here, as well as the
scattered remains of a water wheel and jetty.
Taylor Hill, where during the mid to late 1800s, a whale
hunting company operated. From the crest of this hill--which is 59 feet
above sea level--is the most breathtaking view of the entire island and
its surrounding seas. There are mounds of rocks up here that many call
"mysterious." As a matter of fact, a local islander named
Oswaldo, who was born and raised on Salt Cay and prides himself as a
local historian, notes with a chuckle that there is "nothing at all
mysterious about them!" He claims that these are merely the result
of previous landowners' efforts to clear the property for plantings and
to make more stone walls.
Less than 200 years ago, the main Salinas were a plot of
land where corn, cotton and tobacco were grown! The size of this
waterway is impressive--especially when one considers the effort put
into laying all the stone works and irrigation canals, called "lollies".
The salinas are dotted with the remains of nine original windmills,
which were used to push saltwater into the drying pans. Although decades
of storms and neglect have rendered them inoperable, they now provide
roosting spots for ospreys and egrets.